Nicolas Ghesquire is nothing if not intentional. The guest of honor for the show is the sun, he said poetically. It was designed by Louis Kahn in 1965 and is afamous example of brutalist architecture, which is characterized by the use of concrete, harsh angles, andlarge-scale structures. The latter was fresh from an appearance at the Met Gala, where she also wore Louis Vuitton. Beyond the very impressive site, this place holds enormous meaning for the future of humankind. Who What Wear is part of Future US LLC, an international media group and leading digital publisher. Naturally, they all wore Louis Vuitton. Delilah Muhammad walks the runway of the Louis Vuitton cruise 2023 show at the Salk Institute in San Diego, California on May 12, 2022. In most of the show, its cotton, silk, and wool that we manage to render visually technical without using glue or thermo-molding. To close the show, three statement XL-shouldered coats styled with aviator headcovers were an instant success on Instagram. If so, its been recently, in his two post-pandemic Paris shows. High, structured shoulders reminiscent of Viktor and Rolf riddled the runway, with texture playing a big part in varying the many layers of each ready-to-wear look. WITH HIS LATEST COLLECTION FOR LOUIS VUITTON, NICOLAS GHESQUIRE PRESENTED A WARDROBE FIT FOR A MODERN-DAY RACE OF AMAZON WARRIORS. With the location a fitting place for a post-pandemic show, the Cruise collection debuted what the new, modern woman warrior looks like. At the Salk Institute for Biological Studies in La Jolla, a campus that brings together some of the pre-eminent minds in biomedicine. Transporting his clothes across the world to celebrate the relaxed nature of a Cruise collection has always been a much anticipated hallmark of his time at Louis Vuitton, so for the 2023 Cruise he flew guests all the way to California. Together with todays in Southern California, they form a sort of trilogy, starting in the 19th century, making a pitstop in the 90s of his own post-adolescence, and zooming off into a utopian future. All the researchers, the technicians in white lab coats, and the ultra-perfected laboratories, are like a world unto itself. 2022 Nervora Fashion, Inc. and Cond Nast International. A tropical palette of cerulean blue, lime green, sherbet yellow, tomato red, and tangerine broke up the disco party, by way of co-ord skirt suiting, structured mini dresses, and funky parachute pants. All rights reserved. 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Other pieces lifted design details from water sports; the airbrushed colors of half tops and boxy short skirts apparently came from jet skis. The opening looks saw three dresses with voluminous skirts and strong shoulders emerge in an assortment of sparkling fabrics. Instead, it offered something even better: a delightfully unexpected cast of models that included double-amputee Lauren Wasser flaunting her golden prosthetic legs, 18-year-old Olympic skier Eileen Gu, and Olympic track starDalilah Muhammad. Were not far from the Mexican border, further up is Silicon Valley, and theres the Coronado, the legendary hotel where Marilyn Monroe starred in Some Like it Hot. The institute was founded by Dr. Jonas Salk, who invented the polio vaccinean apt tie-in to the world's current state of affairsconsidering that an event of thissize would never have occurred without the COVID-19 vaccine. Here, everything else you need to know about the spectacle. In the heart of the West Coast, at the Salk Institute in San Diego, Nicolas Ghesquire stages his latest fashion show for this historic French Maison. At Louis Vuitton tonight, the person on my right saw superheroines. It plays an active part in the evolution of this wardrobe where changes in temperature set a stylistic tempo. The Apatows were hardly the only celebrities in attendance. For several seasons now, weve been creating technical effects with natural materials. This nomad woman is a strong one, and seems ready for battle, dressed in looks that borrowed elements from a warfare world. Its a major evolution in the transformation of fabrics. There is also metallic embroidery that will oxidize with time and change color. Most of us go to great pains to avoid denting our luggage, so the brand's newest design is certainly unexpected but will no doubt be hugely popular come 2023. Aside from being mesmerizing and thought-provoking, Louis Vuittons Resort 2023 show was incredibly empowering. So just like the buildings designer, the womenswear Creative Director wanted to take this chance to invite the sun as the guest of honour this season mirroring the movement of this force of nature. Prints inspired by Salk and photographed using a thermographic camera. Simply put, Louis Vuittons latest collection was not only visually stunning and intriguing, but, more importantly, it was necessary. The set up at Louis Vuittons Cruise event was worthy of an American postcard. There lingers an aesthetic from the American golden age, mixed with the extreme southern West Coast. Ad Choices. Many of the stars that LV dressed forthe Met Gala earlier this month were out in full force for the Cruise show, including Gemma Chan, Phoebe Dynevor, and Chlo Grace Moretz. The one on my left saw the Amazons of Greek mythology, female warriors who matched men in strength and agility. The soundtrack to the daring presentation was backed by the sounds of Sparks, with hair courtesy of Duffy and makeup byPat MacGrath. Another new bag, the Petite Valise, combinesthe iconicLV monogram with mirrored details and industrial hardware. Scarves piled atop models mimicked the statuesque architecture of the venue. Harper's BAZAAR participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. THERE is something otherworldly, maybe even intergalactic about Nicolas Ghesquires designs. Boxy, encrusted tanks and midriff-baring metallic criss-cross tops that resembled modern suits of armor were paired with metallic thigh-high riding boots or sneakers. Nothing about the Cruise 2023 show was an accident. Withsome silhouettes reminiscent of UFOs, the futuristic designs set against an ombr sky reminded me of the lyrics from one of my favorite Neil Young songs: "I dreamed I saw the silver spaceships flying in the yellow haze of the sun." Ive long had images of this place, for reference. In a show inspired by the beauty of Monaco, Chanels Cruise 2023 pieces are a unique blend of vintage glamor and motorsports wear. What resonance is there between this location and your collection? I like very structured things, but here I also wanted fluid, flowing silhouettes. The Medieval-inspired designs featured exaggerated takes on traditional (and historic) silhouettes like peplum waists and Elizabethan-like collars. The vibrations and reflections of the silhouettes shine in dialogue within the sunset.. Thus, with the setting sun reflecting off of the concrete exterior, it provided a contemporary, almost mythic ambiance for the show. Likewise, most of the ensembles that followed featured prominent, square shoulders that conveyed a sense of power and boldness. The fashion house showed its cruise collection at the Salk Institute in California, where creative director Nicolas Ghesquire continued his tradition of staging Louis Vuitton cruise shows at some of the worlds most remarkable architectural structures. Or, as the press release more eloquently states, "the unique light of the West Coast created prisms on clothes full of reflections." Its another image of California. 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The collection itself fit the location perfectly. The Roy family is coming back to HBO for a fourth season, here's everything we know so far.. In trueGhesquire style, there was nothing simplistic about the clothes. Very shiny frayed tweeds, sequins, leathers, and metallic denim all row materials mixed with shine. All rights reserved. These were extraordinary: imaginative and otherworldy. But the star of the runway was arguably Lauren Wasser, a double amputee who has long raised awareness about toxic shock syndrome. The long pathway showcasing a vista of the Pacific Ocean also happened to be a perfect temporary runway. Of the nearby Geisel Library, by William Leonard Pereira, tooits extraordinary! The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Vogue.com. The guest of honor for the show is the sun, he told Vogue. Kate Moss Thinks Her Daughters Generation Dresses a Bit Too Prudishly, Leni Klum Wears a See-Through Lace Dress to Raise Money for UNICEF, Photo by Phillip Faraone/WireImage via Getty Images, Photo by Patrick T. Fallon via Getty Images. Ever since I started showing Cruise collections for the House, I wanted the common thread to be an architectural journey. Its a kind of utopic crossing And then clothes reflecting the sun play on all the metal tones you can possibly imagine. All Rights Reserved. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Overlooking the Pacific Ocean, bathed by those orange and pink sunsets you can only get in California, The Salk Institute for Biological Studies, designed by Louis I Kahn in 1965, is that type of location that really makes an impact. L'OFFICIEL looks at the unique, quirky, delightfully chic, and refreshing street style trends from Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022 to inspire your fall wardrobe. The Louis Kahn-designed Brutalist masterpiece was chosen as the latest venue, and drew in a very starry front row, which included Lea Seydoux, Miranda Kerr, Gemma Chan and Emma Roberts, among others. To revisit this article, select My Account, thenView saved stories. Perhaps its this forward-thinking mission that resonated with Ghesquire, whos brought his own innovation and novelty to the heritage brand since stepping into his role in 2013. Celebrating the peak of architectural grandeur, some of the past Cruise venues hand-picked by artistic director Nicolas Ghesquire included Oscar Niemeyers Niteri Contemporary Art Museum, in Brazil, and IM Pei-designed Miho Museum, in Japan. Thus, its clear that Ghesquire recognized the increasing need for women to feel powerful in every aspect of their lives, including their clothing. Midriffs may have been bare but not without a metal hole punched belt to fasten in the abs, parachute winged sleeves on thigh caressing bomber jackets made for an interesting reinterpretation, and a rhombus-shaped shoulder cropped jacket redefined any 80s notion of what shoulder pads should be. As travel restrictions ease up, luxury brands are jumping back into old habits as they jet off across the world to unveil their upcoming collections.. It sounds quite idyllicand it was. Fashion, after all, is meant to be a carefree, fluid experience, an intuitive uniting of old and new. Even though I know Los Angeles well, this part of the regionLa Jollais new to me. Celebs in attendance included Chloe Grace Moretz, Maude and Iris Apatow, Leslie Mann, Ana De Armas, Emma Roberts, Gemma Chan, Lea Seydoux, Samara Weaving, and many more familiar faces. The show itself played with concepts of architecture, prisms and sun light based off the work of ArchutectLouis Kahn puts the sun, the creator of natural life, at the heart of the Salk Institute, a brutalist from 1965 designed as a serene concrete monastery for enlightened souls. For Cruise 2023, Louis Vuitton returned to California, but this time closer to the oceanwell, actually, percheddirectly on top of crashing wavesat the Salk Institute inSan Diego. Chanel Heads to Monte Carlo for Cruise 2023 Show, 10 Upcoming Destination Fashion Shows to Look Forward To, Christine Quinn's Most Outrageous Outfits, 14 Summer Shorts for Women Besides Your Old Denim Cutoffs, Everything You Need to Know About LED Light Therapy, Get All the Must-Know Details About 'Succession' Season 4, 20 Times Celebrity Couples Co-Starred in Music Videos, 5 Street Style Trends from Copenhagen Fashion Week, I hereby give my consent to the processing of my personal data for the purposes of. The heat imposes nomadic aesthetics, between sand and cliffs, a fluid look.. Below, we round up the catwalk and front-row highlights you need to see from Louis Vuitton cruise 2023. Such was also the case for Louis Vuittons Cruise 2023 show, held at San Diegos Salk Institute for Biological Studies, designed by architect Louis Kahn. Nicolas Ghesquire doesnt play when it comes to the locations of Louis Vuittons cruise shows. As if they were part of a prism. Not only the local skater culture was clearly referenceda metallic skateboard carried by one of the models will be a must-have for collectors, but the brutalist silhouette of the Salk Institute was also literally printed in flowy coats and dresses.
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